Welcome to Rishikesh, India

Rishikesh exists in a delicate balance between city, nature, tourism and spirituality. Nestled against green rolling mountains and next to the start of the Ganges River, it’s reminscant of San Francisco in the early 1900s.

During my month in Rishikesh, I wandered around with my camera, attended religious ceremonies, made new friends, hung out with old ones, learned the art of Laughing Yoga, and, most importantly, relaxed!

Now, I invite you to enjoy an overview of life in Rishikesh … alongside some of my favorite photos from my time there.

 

Local holy men perform a puja alongside the Ganges (Ganga) River in Rishikesh, India
Local holy men perform a puja alongside the Ganges (Ganga) River in Rishikesh, India

 

A 30 second exposure of the tail end of a sunset over Rishikesh and the Ganges River in India
A 30 second exposure of the tail end of a sunset over Rishikesh and the Ganges River in India

An Intro to Rishikesh, India

While the city area itself is quite large, Carrie and I spend most of our time in a little rectangular space a few miles long. Split down the middle by the Ganges River, one main road runs from top to bottom on both sides while a pair of bridges connects them.

Yoga Centers by the Laxshman Jhula in Rishikesh, India
Yoga Centers by the Laxshman Jhula in Rishikesh, India

At either end of each bridge, there is a pocket of commerce, guesthouses, ashrams, temples, yoga centers and urban existence. As pilgrims come to Rishikesh from all over the world to visit, pray and cleanse in the Ganga, you can imagine there’s always a crowd. The city is like Varanasi, but on a much smaller scale.

Alongside the pilgrams, scores of travelers – Western and Indian alike – spend days roaming the streets, eating, shopping, visiting temples, bathing in the Ganga, snapping photos and taking it all in.

While some come for just a day or so, the majority stay for weeks at a time. I was joking the other night that I could spend my entire six month visa just relaxing here.

 

The scenic town of Rishikesh, India, with the foothills of the Himalayas as a background.
The scenic town of Rishikesh, India, with the foothills of the Himalayas as a background.

 

Ganga Beach Cafe & Restaurant by the Lakshman Jhula in Rishikesh, India
Ganga Beach Cafe & Restaurant by the Lakshman Jhula in Rishikesh, India

 

Ganga Beach Cafe & Restaurant by the Lakshman Jhula in Rishikesh, India
Ganga Beach Cafe & Restaurant by the Lakshman Jhula in Rishikesh, India

 

In the battle of Cow v Motorcycle, the Indian Cow always wins
In the battle of Cow v Motorcycle, the Indian Cow always wins

 

Shiva sits at the end of the Laxshman Jhula Bridge in Rishikesh, India
Shiva sits at the end of the Laxshman Jhula Bridge in Rishikesh, India

The Business of Spirituality: Nestled in the Foothills of the Himalayas

Spiritual tourism is the #1 business in Rishikesh with new guesthouses, ashrams, shops and infrastructure always under construction. Alongside the Ganges – India’s holiest river – buildings are covered with signs advertising courses in yoga, meditation, energy, Reiki and more.

Like anything in India or elsewhere, some of the classes treat the subject matter and participants with respect. Others, of course, are just in it for the money and do the bare minimum to get you back out the door. If you’re coming here for this purpose, do your research and choose wisely.

If you’re not in Rishikesh looking for a spiritual journey, it’s still entertaining to wander around and check out the never-ending collection of signs.

 

Tourism in Rishikesh, India
In one building, you can find an ashram, yoga school, music consort, tour agency and a massage parlor where I was groped during a massage

 

Universal Yoga – God Bless You – Rishikesh, India
Universal Yoga – God Bless You – Rishikesh, India

 

Yoga, hotel and tourism signs by Ram Julah in Rishikesh, India
Yoga, hotel and tourism signs by Ram Julah in Rishikesh, India

NYC-London-Delhi-Rishikesh in 36 Hours

When I arrived in Rishikesh, my wife, Carrie, had already been there for two months studying yoga. This meant that I was on my own. Good thing getting to Rishikesh was pretty easy … albeit quite time-consuming.

Carrie and I on the porch of the Vana Mali ashram in Rishikesh
Carrie and I on the porch of the Vana Mali ashram in Rishikesh
  • Car ride to the JFK Airport with my mom
  • Flight, layover, flight
  • Taxi to the wrong bus terminal in Delhi
  • Inter-city bus to the right one
  • Public bus ride
  • Tuk Tuk to the bridge
  • A brief walk over it…

…and there she was. My beautiful wife, walking up the street just as I turned off the bridge, as if she knew I had arrived.

And once again, all was right with the world.

 

Looking down at the Ganges River between Laxshman Jhula and Ram Jhula in Rishikesh, India
Looking down at the Ganges River between Laxshman Jhula and Ram Jhula in Rishikesh, India

 

A panoramic view of Rishikesh, India, and the Ganges River
A panoramic view of Rishikesh, India, and the Ganges River

 

It seems that everywhere in Rishikesh has an amazing view of the Ganga
It seems that everywhere in Rishikesh has an amazing view of the Ganga

Want more? Here are a bunch of random observations from Rishikesh